Robert Mapplethorpe’s Fashion Photography

French Vogue, 1986

Robert Mapplethorpe is not just penises and flowers he did a lot of fashion photography that was often overlooked because of his highly controversial X portfolio in the 1980s. Recently the Alison Jacques Gallery in London exhibited the work in their show, Robert Mapplethorpe: Fashion Show. Sad I missed it but it looked amazing!


More Mapplethorpe to Come

Check out WhiteWall’s feature on Mapplethorpe past and upcoming exhibitions.

More Mapplethorpe to Come


I look forward to 2016 because yet again The Getty Foundation and LACMA will show their large collection of work by Mapplethorpe. The collection includes over 1,900 editioned prints and over 1,000 non-editioned prints, 200 unique mixed-media objects, over 160 Polaroids, 120,000 negatives, and extensive working materials, ephemera, and documents. You can bet that Patty is in quite a few of these!


The Perfect Imperfection


When Patti first met Robert he was a shy Catholic boy from Long Island, soon he would transform into one of photography’s most important figures.

For the past six months I have been rigourously researching Robert Mapplethorpe’s X, Y, Z portofolios; X contains his infamous S&M photographs, Y embodies the beautiful yet erotic flower portraits, and Z is a collection of his perfectly sculpted African American nudes. There are thirteen images to each portfolio that were first collectively shown in 1989 and have now resurfaced today at LACMA. I have been investigating the effects that these images have had on the viewer then and now.

The perfect is an ongoing theme for Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs, even down to the perfect square negative that his medium format camera, the Hasselblad, produced. Mapplethorpe said, “Perfection means you don’t question anything about the photograph.” Perfection was not just a theme that Mapplethorpe strove for when photographing, it was also a struggle. His perfect ideas that turned to perfect images often led to a perfect mess: censorship. Censorship followed Mapplethorpe like Death, lurking around each corner, waiting to pull him and his images into the depths of  controversy. “They” say that no publicity is bad publicity; in the case of Mapplethorpe, this is true. The controversy behind his images and museum/gallery career made Mapplethorpe an iconic figure in the photography world. Mapplethorpe has been subjected to censorship, even after death, and now that his art is being looked at again at a different period of history, I wonder how the public will respond. The context of Mapplethorpe’s photography then and now has not changed, but the world and its culture has. Will Americans be more willing and accepting to re-welcome this art that was once labeled “obscene” and, even more important, is it still considered “obscene”?


*Robert Mapplethorpe quoted in, Janet Kardon, “Robert Mapplethorpe Interview” in Robert Mapplethorpe, The Perfect Moment (Philadelphia: Institute of Contemporary Art, 1988), 28.

Finding Patti

I was handed the book Just Kids a year and a half ago by a friend who highly recommended it. It sat upon my bookshelf, collecting dust for about 9 months. Then, I noticed my roommate reading it. He said he could not put it down. Two days later, I saw a stranger reading it at a restaurant. I casually approached him and politely asked, “Terribly sorry to interrupt, but I must know, do you like or love that book?” He responded with, “this is the first book I’ve ever loved.” After these two encounters, I dove face first into Patti and Robert’s story.